I was originally bummed at the way the heel felt when I did my first couple climbs. ![]() One gym session is not enough to judge a pair of shoes. My other LS shoes sizes are Katana Lace 43.5 previous model (all-day comfort, thin cracks), TC Pro 43.5 previous model (all-day comfort) Skwama 41.5 (performance yet comfy fit after stretch), Kataki 42 (performance yet comfy), Otaki 41.5 (performance/tight). My “all-day comfort” fit has been 43.5 in the previous Katana Lace model, but since the new TC Pro model seemed to grow a half size, I opted to downsize a half size to 43 for the 2022 Katana. I’m a 44.5 in LaSpo trail runners and approach shoes. I think that the NEW version has more asymmetry compared to the old, which could perhaps explain this flatter toe profile since my foot is more on the asymmetric side. When measuring the forefoot with a ruler, the OLD version toebox is actually a couple mm wider, but when putting my old pair on after the gym sesh for reference, it was obvious how much more cramped my toes were in the OLD version. ![]() 75/tight-1s section I could get far more of my toes/foot in than typical, making for a much more enjoyable experience on my ankles. 4/.5 section seemed to have extra purchase and for the. I had done this crack multiple times in my older Katanas and Skwamas, and this was the easiest it had ever felt for my footwork. This was very noticeable when I climbed the fingers to tight hands crack (at the gym). In the old version I always had some toe curl, especially my 2nd toe, but also in the three smallest. Instinct has small heel and low volume and wide forefoot.The most noticeable difference for me in the NEW version is that my three smallest toes lay flatter in the new KL. Solution has a huge heel and narrow toes. The Solution fits nothing like the Instinct for me. I've tried every shoe I could get my hands on and these two are the best fitting for me minus soft bouldering shoes like the Pythons that mold to your feet. Now that they stretched the Katana lace is way more comfortable weighting my feet on slab type routes though. In fact breaking in my Katana Lace's was sort of a bitch on my toes and I even stopped wearing them for awhile in favor of the IVS. I have bent toes in both and at times my IVS is even more comfortable. The Instinct VS and Katana lace actually fit me very similarly sized a 1/2 size apart. The toe shape is not the best for smearing and it is sort of awkward to climb in now for me. My Grip 2 resoled Instinct VS does feel sort of like a Solution but I wouldn't do that again. Also, there is a big difference in the Grip 2 rubber of the Solution vs Edge. It is one of the few shoes I feel like I could do anything in and I feel like it covers more of a range of bouldering and sport climbing than many specialist type aggressive La Sportiva shoes. It is great for bouldering but also solid on routes of many types. It depends on what factors you are considering but I had two pairs of Solutions before the Instinct VS and it is much more of an all around shoe than a Solution. Cracks would probably be one of the Vapors stronger points I am guessing also. I don't climb cracks so that wasnt much of an factor for me but I do see what you are saying about the Katana Lace toe profile being sleeker. The Vapor velcro is definitely more like the Katana VELCRO. I was disappointed when I got the Vapors and don't care for it much except the comfort. Ted Pinson wrote:Yeah, I would not compare an Instinct to a Katana.more like a Solution.I think the overall point I was trying to make is that to me the Instinct VS is just more similar than the Vapor velcro to a Katana lace. ![]() I would have preferred those and they are probably closer to the Katana Lace than the velcro Vapor. I often prefer the Katana Lace for outdoors such at NRG face climbs and Instinct VS for gym/bouldering/shorter outdoor routes and cooler weather climbing.Įdit: I don't know if people are talking about the Vapor lace or velcro version but there is a new lace up out that wasn't around for awhile. The Instinct VS is a softer midsole, more sensitive everywhere, better heel hooking Katana Lace with the penalty of decreased edging abilities and support for standing on little edges. The Instinct VS actually shares many climbing characteristics of the Katana Lace outdoors. Vapor V's are better at smearing maybe but not so good at edging unless sized tight since they are soft and lack a constructed toe shape underfoot to channel power. Vapors are less downturned, less aggressive, less stiff, and without the cupped shape under the toes that makes Katana Laces so great for pulling down and edging in on things. Are they more downturned than the katana laces.No they are are not actually. Eli poss wrote:The vapors look pretty downturns from the pictures on scarpa's site.
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